Planting Native Trees & Shrubs

Planting Native Trees & Shrubs

Get Started

Shrink Your Lawn

Remove Invasive Plants

Make a Home for Wildlife

Design a Native Landscape

Plant Trees & Shrubs

Why Native Trees & Shrubs?

Native trees and shrubs are the foundation of thriving ecosystems. They feed pollinators, shelter and feed birds, and bring beauty to your yard through every season. Unlike non-native ornamentals, native species evolved alongside local wildlife and provide the food and habitat they depend on. Every native tree and shrub you plant helps restore biodiversity, right where you live.

It’s tempting to think first about adding flowers, but trees and shrubs often provide the most impact. Keystone species like oaks and willows can support hundreds of insects and birds. And when planted with “soft landings” underneath—areas of diverse native groundcover—they create layered habitat that supercharges your yard’s ability to support life.

Choosing & Planting the Right Way

Choosing the right tree and the right place to plant it is critical to long-term success. Get it wrong, and you could face root damage, expensive maintenance, sidewalk upheaval, or even early tree death. But get it right, and you’ll enjoy decades of shade, beauty, and benefits with very little upkeep.

Note: While this video provides excellent and broadly applicable guidance, it does mention a few nonnative species. We advocate planting only native species. For native trees with ornamental and ecological value in your ecoregion, check out our Keystone Plant Finder.

So where do you begin?

Start with four simple but essential questions:

1. What is the goal of the tree?

People often think of the aesthetics or cost of the plant first, but we recommend starting with a broader question: what is the goal of the tree?

For example, do you want the tree to provide shade, or are you trying to create a privacy row? Do you want it to be an ornamental feature near a house or a tree for children to climb in the backyard? Once you’ve determined the goal, you can start thinking about site conditions.

2. What are the soil and light conditions of the planting area?

Next, think about the planting site. Is the area soggy, dry, sunny, or shady? Does the soil drain well or stay compacted and clay-heavy? Some species prefer dry, rocky soils; others need rich, loamy conditions. You may be able to amend the soil—but you’ll have more success if you choose a species that thrives in what you’ve got.

Sunlight matters too: full sun means 6+ hours, partial sun means 3–6, and shade means less than that. Most trees need at least partial sun to thrive.

3. How big will the tree or shrub be at maturity?

It may look like a small stick now, but what about in 20 years? Will it fit comfortably as it spreads upward and outward? Consider nearby structures, sidewalks, overhead wires, and fences. Position your tree so that there is space all around with no obstacles to restrict canopy growth.

Don’t forget about the underground. A tree’s roots. A tree's roots can spread out even farther than its canopy, so it is essential to think about that space too. Is there a patio nearby that could be damaged by roots? Will the roots be constrained by the roots of neighboring trees?

Note: trees don’t break pipes, but large pipes could be a consideration. Be sure to look both up and down – you don’t want to cut down a healthy, mature tree simply because it has run out of space.

4. What are the secondary benefits of the tree?

You have narrowed down your list of trees to ones that will thrive in the area you’ve selected. Now you can think about specific species and secondary benefits. This is where it gets fun.

For example, if you live in a rural area, you might consider a tree that is deer-resistant. Maybe you’re looking for an evergreen tree so that you have year-round color or a tree that has brilliant red leaves in the fall. Perhaps you’d like a tree that flowers in the spring, or one that provides food for squirrels, hummingbirds, and other wildlife. Trees have a multitude of secondary benefits, so you’re sure to find the perfect fit.

See Examples on LeafLimb.com

Because you’ve taken the time to consider the tree that suits your goal, you’ll have less work to do in the future. Selecting the tree that best fits your location will mean less care in the long run. You will also have given your tree the best chance at a long and healthy life.

More FAQs

Proper Planting: Depth, Width & Root Collar

Why It Matters

The most important part of planting a tree or shrub is getting the root collar — the spot where the trunk flares into the root system — exposed and above grade. Unfortunately, most trees purchased from nurseries come with the root collar buried under soil or mulch. Before planting, gently remove that excess material until you see the top of the structural roots. These are the larger roots that flare out from the trunk. You can cut off the tiny mat of roots that often grows into the excess soil on top of the root collar.

Set the Right Depth

Your planting hole should be slightly shallower than the root ball as measured from base of exposed root flare to base of root ball. Why? Trees settle over time. If you plant too deep, the trunk may become buried again and that leads to serious problems, such as:

Strangling roots can form, wrapping around and choking the trunk
Excess moisture builds up at the base, encouraging rot, disease, and pests
The tree becomes weak, stressed, and may die prematurely

Shallow is better than deep. Always.

Dig Wide, Not Deep

In addition to proper depth, the width of your planting hole matters too. Aim for a hole at 2 times and preferably three times the width of the root ball. This gives new roots room to spread into loose soil, helping the tree establish quickly.Remember: roots often grow as wide, or wider, than the canopy. A generous hole sets the stage for long-term stability and health.

Remove burlap or bucket

Squeeze the sides of the bucket and gently slide the tree out. If your tree is nested in burlap, cut and remove all twine and string that hold the burlap together. Remove at least the top half of the burlap after it is in the hole.

Carefully place the tree in the hole

Gently place the tree in the hole. The most important part of placing the tree in the hole is to make sure the root collar is level or just above the surrounding grade. We recommend getting down on the ground and putting your head near the edge of the hole to ensure the root flare is above or at the surrounding grade.

Backfill (put soil back in the hole and mix with compost)

After you make sure the tree trunk is vertical, pack some dirt around the bottom third of the root ball to hold the tree in place. Then, fill the hole using a mix of soil and high-quality compost (no fertilizers!). Make sure you break apart any large clumps.

Filling the Hole

Add compost. Break up the soil. Press the soil firmly with one foot to remove large air spaces. Pack soil a little less firmly as the hole fills. The goal is to eliminate large air spaces, keep the root ball securely in place, but avoid overly compacting the soil.

Gently compress the soil and add a final layer of compost.

Use one foot to gently compress the backfill soil around the base of the tree. Be careful not to overly compact the soil! The backfill must have plenty of pore space (like a sponge) to allow new roots to grow easily. Spread a final layer of compost on the compressed backfill.

Add Arborist Wood Chips

Spread them in a layer 3 to 6 inches deep, ideally extending all the way to the edge of the tree's canopy (also called the "drip line"). Just as important: leave at least a 3 inch gap between the mulch and the trunk.

Add a Stake if Needed

If a tree is wobbling more than it should after all these steps are completed, then it needs a staking system. There are so many to choose from, but the most efficient is to drive a stake straight through the root ball into the ground below and then tie that stick to the tree trunk.

The Right Way to Mulch

We strongly recommend using arborist wood chips, a natural byproduct of tree trimming. Spread them in a layer 3 to 6 inches deep, ideally extending all the way to the edge of the tree's canopy (also called the "drip line"). Just as important: leave at least a 3 inch gap between the mulch and the trunk.

Why? Piling mulch or soil against the base of a tree creates what's known as a mulch volcano—one of the most damaging and widespread landscaping mistakes in recent decades. These volcanoes trap moisture against the trunk, causing rot, disease, pest problems, and strangling roots that can eventually kill the tree. If you spot one, carefully remove the mulch and expose the root collar—or hire a professional to do it for you.

Why Wood Chips Work

Properly applied arborist wood chips offer a wide range of benefits:

Protect trees from damage
Wood chip beds create a buffer zone that keeps lawnmowers and string trimmers away from the trunk. Repeated mechanical damage to bark is a leading cause of tree decline.
Retain soil moisture
Wood chips reduce evaporation, helping the soil stay consistently moist—a key to healthy root systems, especially during dry periods.
Regulate soil temperature
They insulate roots from extreme heat and cold, and prevent sun damage to the soil’s surface during the growing season.
Make it easy to “leave the leaves”
Wood chip beds naturally collect and compost fallen leaves, mimicking a forest floor and supporting rich, living soil.
Feeds the soil as it decomposes

Helps establish a vibrant soil food web.

Helps reduce soil compaction

Provides a buffer where people walk.

Tip: Replenish wood chips each year and break up compacted areas with a fork to keep them loose and water permeable. Healthy mulch = healthy soil = healthy tree.

When to Plant

In much of the U.S., fall is the best time to plant trees and shrubs. Cool weather allows roots to grow without heat stress, giving plants a strong start before next summer. Spring planting is also excellent, especially in colder or wetter regions. Summer is the hardest season to plant, unless you can provide steady water.

Southeast/Mid-Atlantic (e.g., NC): Best from leaf-drop through March — cool, moist soils favor root growth before summer heat.

Cold Upper Midwest/Northeast: Early fall is good, but in very cold zones, spring may be safer for tender species to avoid frost heave.

Hot/Dry Southwest: Late fall–winter planting lets roots establish before extreme summer heat.

Maritime PNW: Fall to early spring works well thanks to mild, wet winters.

When in doubt, plant during local dormancy with workable, not waterlogged, soils.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Planting Too Deep

Planting a tree too deeply is one of the easiest and most common ways to kill a newly planted tree. The root collar is the name given to the base of the tree trunk where it flares out before disappearing as roots underground. This root collar must be level or just above the surrounding grade. When the root collar is below grade, it will eventually become buried by dirt and debris. This keeps the trunk moist, leading to rot that will kill the tree over time.

Placing Mulch Too Close to the Trunk

Planting a tree too deeply is not the only way to damage the base of the tree. Accidentally burying it by piling too much mulch around the trunk can also cause damage. Mulch is essential to the health of young trees, so thankfully this problem is easily prevented: just be sure that mulch is at least 3 inches away from the base of the tree.

Choosing the Wrong Location

Choosing the wrong place to plant a tree is another common planting mistake. Planting a specific species in the wrong location can reduce its lifespan. This mistake can also cause damage to nearby structures and generate a host of other issues. Imagine a large oak tree planted in a tiny plot of grass. It will quickly outgrow the space it has been allotted. Well before planting, choose a species based on a variety of parameters including the size of the tree at maturity, the location of utility lines, sun and water requirements, and region suitability. Choosing the right species and planting in the right place will ensure that your tree stays healthier for longer.

Adding Fertilizer

Using fertilizer during or immediately after planting a tree can damage roots by burning them. Trees are in shock from being transplanted and need to get used to their new environment without additives. Plus, root growth in newly planted trees is not enhanced by fertilizer. Traditional fertilizers don’t improve and can harm soil. Use compost or compost tea on a regular basis rather than traditional fertilizers.

Forgetting to Water Consistently

Water is key to the growth of trees. When they are not watered consistently, trees become stressed, making them more vulnerable to disease and insect attacks. Watering trees in the first couple of years after planting is especially important to trees’ development of new roots. This is particularly important for containerized or balled-and-burlapped trees. Bare-root saplings of 1 to 2 years may not need to be watered at all if they are planted in the dormant season.

Overwatering

On the flip side, don’t forget that too much water is sometimes worse than not enough. Oversaturation can drown the root system, loosen root structures, and encourage disease.

Not Removing from Burlap or Container Properly

For plants that are grown in containers, it’s important to make sure the roots are not wrapped tightly around the outside of the root ball. If they are, the outside of the root ball must be scored vertically with a knife. For balled and burlapped plants, it’s best to remove the upper half of the burlap and wire cage while being mindful to keep the root ball intact. Some types of treated or synthetic burlap can take years to decompose; in the meantime, they may damage roots or restrict their growth.

Forgetting to Remove Staking System

In the rare cases where a staking system needs to be installed, it is essential to remove it after the first or second year. If it’s not removed, the staking system can girdle the tree and kill it above the restricted section.

Caring for Newly Planted Trees & Shrubs

Watering schedules during first 2–3 years
Proper watering during a tree’s early years is one of the most important factors in ensuring long-term survival and healthy growth. Here’s how to do it right:

Year 1: Frequent and Deep

When to water: During the growing season (spring through early fall), especially during dry spells.
How often: 1–2 times per week, depending on rainfall and temperature.
How much: Aim for a deep soak, not a light sprinkle. Use 10 gallons per inch of trunk diameter each time you water.
How to check: Dig down 4–6 inches near the root zone and squeeze the soil. If it crumbles dry or blows away, it's time to water. If it feels like a wrung-out sponge, it's perfect.

Year 2: Taper and Monitor

Frequency: Reduce to once every 10–14 days, still watering deeply.
Goal: Encourage deeper root growth and gradual independence from supplemental watering.

Year 3: Occasional Support

By year three, your tree should be well-established. Water only during prolonged dry periods—typically more than 2–3 weeks without rain in hot weather.

Pro tip: Mulch helps tremendously. A 3-6” layer of arborist wood chips conserves moisture, stabilizes soil temperature, and reduces the frequency of watering.

Mulching basics – see full explanation in FAQs

Pruning only as needed (remove dead/damaged branches)

It’s also important to not heavily prune your tree in the first year so that it can recover from the stress of being transplanted. Dead or broken branches can be removed, but limit pruning to those cases.

After the first year, structural pruning is essential to ensure that your tree has a strong, central trunk, evenly spaced branches, and a balanced canopy.

Protecting the Trunk

In some cases, the base of the trunk might need to be covered with a trunk protector, or a wire fence can be installed to prevent damage from deer or string trimmers. Here’s video on how to build a tree cage for a sapling:

Signs of stress and what to do – this is covered in watering, generally the only thing to do the first year is to water when the ground is dry. If the tree is planted properly then there shouldn’t need to be interventions.

Bonus: Plant Saplings

Planting trees when they are saplings is easier, requires less maintenance, and the trees typically grow more quickly.

1. Saplings are easy to plant. Because the root system is so young and dense, to plant, all you have to do is make a wedge in the ground using a small shovel or spade. There is no need to dig a large hole. Place the sapling in the hole with the roots facing down and loosely cover with dirt and a layer of wood chips. That's it!

2. Saplings are easier to maintain. Larger trees need a lot of attention during the first few years after planting. They require 10 to 20 gallons per week per inch of trunk diameter during the growing season. That is a lot of water! Smaller trees only really need water if there is a prolonged period of drought, and, even then, it should just be a small amount.

3. Saplings establish and grow more quickly. Younger trees have resilient root systems that can overcome the stress of being planted faster than larger trees can. This means they spend less time healing from damage and can put more energy into growing roots and shoots. In 5-10 years, a tree that is planted when it is younger will likely be taller and healthier than a larger tree planted at the same time.

Learn more about planting saplings here.

This content is provided by Leaf & Limb.

Leaf & Limb is a regenerative tree and land care company that cares for trees, flowers and soil. They work with Nature, deliver long‑term value, and have the proven, hands‑on expertise to get the work done right.

What is regenerative tree and land care?
Our primary goals are to increase photosynthesis and transform dirt back to soil. Properly plant native trees. Help them attain a long, healthy life. Preserve existing trees. Get rid of lawns in exchange for native meadows planted from seed. Stop using fertilizers and harmful chemicals. Do everything we can to increase the abundance and diversity of life within the sub/urban landscape. This work takes time and there are no quick fixes.

By working with natural systems instead of against them, we help heal the Earth. As an added bonus, we also save time and money because we perform fewer tasks and use fewer products.

Project Pando
Project Pando is our non-profit where we connect people with trees to help heal the planet. We do this by operating a native seed hub that works with our community to collect seeds from native trees and shrubs. We then grow these seeds into saplings to benefit native restoration projects in our local ecosystem. Learn more about Project Pando.